Each Chef Should Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.

Tyler Gray
Tyler Gray

Passionate gamer and writer exploring game mechanics and storytelling since 2015.